Something else to be mindful of with exfoliation is that it’s not always just about what we’re taking away, but what we’re putting back into the skin. Using the wrong formula, or over exfoliating can really compromise, sensitise and significantly impair this protective layer on the skin. This can make the skin reactive, susceptible to infection, prone to dehydration, dysregulate oil production and can slow the rate of collagen and elastin renewal. Ensuring the skin barrier remains healthy, intact and functioning optimally is essential to having a robust, resilient and radiant complexion. This starts and ends with a good quality formula that is powerful enough to melt dead cells and debris while remaining respectful of the delicate acid mantle and microflora it houses. I love additional ingredients like ceramides, peptides and saccharide isomerate that prevents transepidermal water loss and keeps our skin plump and juicy.
As a rule, I opt for physical scrubs in the colder months to buff away dead skin and promote a more effective absorption of hydrators and essential fatty acids combatting dry, dull and devitalised winter skin. In summer, a gentler approach with mild AHAs or enzymes is best for gently reviving and energising the complexion.
Though, in this day and age we don’t always have to choose. Emma Lewisham’s Illuminating Face Exfoliant combines both physical and chemical methods in one simple step. It contains both jojoba wax beads and plant based AHAs and BHAs to refine and resurface the complexion without compromising barrier function or causing micro-tears.
A few additional notes regardless of your skin type: being mindful of sun exposure year-round goes without saying, but being mindful of sun exposure after exfoliating is a must — we don't want to expose healthy new skin cells to UVA and UVB radiation. Only ever exfoliate in the evenings, 2-3 times per week and always follow with hydrators. They’ll penetrate more effectively so don’t be shy about your usage here. Then, seal everything in with a nourishing cream, balm or oil to prevent transepidermal water loss and support barrier function to round out the process perfectly.